Rolina Traditional Hainanese Curry Puff – A Taste of Tradition by the Third Generation of Young Hawkers

Rolina has traveled a remarkable journey from its modest start as a roadside stall established by founder Tham Niap Tong in 1958 outside Novena Church in Singapore. Tham Niap Tong acquired the curry puff recipe from a Hainanese sailor in the late 1950s, and it was later passed down to the second-generation, Bren Tham, who has been involved with the stall since he was a young boy. Today, the sole surviving Rolina outlet is located at Tanjong Pagar Food Centre.

When Papa Bren fell ill last year and could no longer manage the stall’s daily operations, his 24-year-old daughter Jolene stepped in to continue the family legacy. With the support of her fiancé, Kwan Wei Lun, the young couple rises at 4 AM each day to prepare snacks like curry puffs and steamed glutinous rice from scratch, pouring their hearts into every bite.

Papa Bren still visits the stall for a few hours on most days to supervise the couple as they adjust to running the business. So far, customer responses have been positive.

So, what makes Hainanese curry puffs so special? Papa Bren explains that Hainanese curry puffs use rempah chilli paste, or as he calls it, ‘Baba-style’ chilli paste, in their filling. At Rolina, the rempah is made fresh every day, cooked with a blend of spices and chilli for two hours, infusing each puff with a rich and aromatic flavor.

Another distinctive feature is the dough skin of the curry puff. Papa Bren shares that the skin of Hainanese curry puffs is thinner, focusing on the filling, which he believes is the heart and soul of the curry puff.

Preparation starts at 4 AM every morning, and the curry puffs are typically ready for sale around 6 AM. Rolina Traditional Hainanese Curry Puff offers only two traditional flavors — Curry Chicken & Egg ($2) and Sardine ($2). Papa Bren emphasizes quality over quantity, ensuring that each handmade puff is fried to golden-brown perfection in small batches.

The crispy curry puffs are fried to a beautiful brown, with around twenty intricate folds on top to secure the filling. Rolina’s pastry is different from spiral puffs; it doesn’t have as many flaky layers but boasts a sturdy, crispy shell that perfectly complements the flavorful filling, making their classic snack a standout.

The puffs arrive piping hot, filled generously. The rempah-coated potato cubes and chicken chunks in the Curry Chicken & Egg puff are spicy and aromatic. The sardine version is exceptionally moist; while sardine puffs are typically dry, Rolina’s freshness ensures the natural moisture of the filling is retained. Stuffed to the brim, each bite is packed with flaky fish, so delicious that I couldn’t resist buying two more sardine puffs for lunch!

If you’re early enough, you might get to try their Glutinous Rice ($3). Chewy, flavorful, and not too greasy, the glutinous rice is studded with shiitake mushrooms, dried shrimp, carrots, and garnished with fried shallots, peanuts, and coriander. Simple and comforting. They also sell pumpkin cake and yam cake.

Rolina Traditional Hainanese Curry Puff has come a long way since its humble beginnings, thanks to the love and dedication of the Tham family. Today, the stall sees a steady stream of customers who return for their handmade curry puffs. It’s inspiring to see the third generation of young hawkers carrying on the family tradition, and I’m grateful they’ve chosen to continue making these labor-intensive, yet incredibly delicious, curry puffs.

MissTamChiak.com made an anonymous visit and paid its own meal at the stall featured here.

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