Old Chang Kee Opens Their Flagship Outlet at REX – This is where it all began…

Mention Rex cinema and I am sure many of you will remember the good old days of movie-watching since 1940s. It was then home to an ice-skating rink, a church, even a disco. Movie-goers will have their meals at coffeeshop and restaurant opposite Rex Cinema. And this was the place where homegrown brand Old Chang Kee started over three decades ago. Today, Old Chang Kee opens their flagship store – Old Chang Kee Coffee House @ Rex – at the original location of the first stall.

The first Old Chang Kee curry puff stall was opened in 1956 by a humble and hardworking Hainan hawker. After 30 years of plying his fare, he was ready to retire and return to Hainan. It was also at this time that Mr Han, a young sales manager and a regular customer at his stall, had thoughts of starting a business of his own and being his own boss.

In 1986, he bought over Old Chang Kee and put in place specific standards of operation to strengthen the foundations for the business. What began as a tiny stall in the corner of the local coffee shop, is now a bigger and brighter 50-seater space that spans three shophouse units. Located at the junction of Mackenzie Road and Niven Road and opposite the renowned Rex Cinema, Old Chang Kee Coffee House @ Rex, exudes old-school charm by way of a myriad of memorabilia and furnishings that reflect a bygone era.

Fans of Old Chang Kee and affiliated brands, Curry Times, Bun Times and Dip ‘n’ Go can now feast on offerings that include several NEW and EXCLUSIVE menu items and regular favourites – all under one roof.

Counting amongst its exciting offerings is the fluffy Flower Bread which consists of seven freshly baked, pull-apart buns. Nestled in the middle of the golden sesame-topped crust ‘flower’ is an enamel bowl filled with a choice of: Curry Chicken ($11.90); Chicken Stew ($11.90); or Beef Stew ($13.90). The dish also comes with free flow gravy – perfect for sharing!

The ultimate comfort food for me is a bowl of chicken curry with a loaf of bread. This is the kind of food that I grew up eating. Everyone will have their own preference for curry chicken but for me, it needs to be moderately spicy with a good balance of spices that will make you finish a whole loaf of bread. The chicken curry here does it for me. As for the beef stew, a nostalgic Hainanese dish, the beef cubes are tender and served with radish and carrots redolent with the fragrance of spices. For a modern touch, diners can opt for the Baked Beef Stew Rice with Cheese ($10.90) which showcases melted cheese and a sprinkling of chopped parsley.

There is also a wide selection of local delights including the popular Dry Laksa Goreng ($8.50) and Hainanese Chap Chye ($6.20). On the day of my visit, I found the former a little bland with noodles sticking to a lump. The chap chye, on the other hand, features a medley of cabbage, black fungus, carrots and glass noodles simmered in a flavourful broth of dried shrimps, garlic, and chicken stock. The cabbage still retained its crunch.

My favourite is the Nasi Lemak with Dry Curry Chicken ($8.90) with tender, minced chicken coated liberally in curry spices paired with aromatic coconut rice and sides of tangy ‘achar’, fish cake, sambal chilli, fried peanuts and anchovies. A sweet ending comes by way of a hot bowl of Bubur Cha Cha ($5.00), a delicious combination of sweet potato, yam and coconut milk, finished with dollops of red and green tapioca balls. So old school!

Stepping into the Old Chang Kee Coffee House @ Rex is a throwback to the good ol’ days, fitted with retro furniture and décor like enamelware, marble top tables, rattan chairs and plastic table covers sporting neon pink and green floral patterns. There is an Old Chang Kee counter to get all your favourite Curry’O, Sotong Head OnStik, Crab Nuggets OnStik, Chicken Wings and more. It sits in the precise spot which was once occupied by a giant oil-filled wok that churned out curry puffs by the dozen.

Mr Han reminisces, “I remember when there was not even sufficient space to stand on the inside of the shop to sell the curry puffs and I had to do it from the walkway. This very spot holds many memories for me and marks a full circle having grown Old Chang Kee the past 32 years to what it is today.”

Note: this was an invited tasting.