Kenjo Bakery in Johor Bahru: Sibling Duo Brings Taiwanese-Japanese Inspired Breads to Mount Austin

On a leafy stretch of Jalan Jaya Putra in Mount Austin, the aroma of butter and yeast drifts down from the second floor of a modest three-story building. By the time it reaches the retail shop on the ground level, where trays of golden rolls are set out for sale, a small crowd has usually gathered. The destination is not one of Johor Bahru’s longstanding institutions, but a newcomer: Kenjo Bakery, a shop that has been open barely a year.

Kenjo is the creation of siblings Joey and John, neither of whom imagined they would one day be bakers. Joey once worked as a dietician at a hospital in Singapore. John ran his own pharmacy in Malaysia. But over the years, Joey developed a quiet obsession with Japanese bakeries in Singapore — their pillowy breads, their buttery layers, the almost ascetic discipline behind them. She began to ask herself a simple question: Why don’t we have this in Malaysia?

To answer it, Joey went to Taoyuan, Taiwan, where she apprenticed for nearly a year in a popular bakery. She returned with calloused hands, an eye for detail, and a conviction that bread should be made without shortcuts: no flavorings, no additives, no artificial leavening agents. Her mornings begin at 5am in the central kitchen on the second floor, so the shelves downstairs are filled by 10:30am. That kind of persistence is worthy of admiration.

Her brother John tasted her bread and as he recalls, “it was just different.” Within two months, he shuttered his pharmacy and joined his sister full-time. Today, Joey remains behind the ovens while John runs the shop floor, a yin-yang partnership that has become the backbone of Kenjo. Even the name Kenjo is a tribute — drawn from their parents, Ken and Jo.

The star here is the shio pan, a Japanese salted butter roll Joey has refined to near-perfection. The dough is rolled with French butter, baked until the crust blushes with gold, and finished with a whisper of fleur de sel. Tear one open and the fragrance alone is intoxicating — a clean, creamy butteriness balanced by just enough salt. It is light, almost airy, but deeply satisfying. No wonder it vanishes before noon.

But the repertoire extends far beyond. Kenjo’s bagels are boiled before baking, giving them a dense, toothsome chew. The flavors are playful: Black Sesame Peanut Mochi offers nutty depth with a sticky sweet core, while Earl Grey Strawberry is floral, almost tea-like, brightened by fruit. Garlic Cream Cheese and Triple Cheese lean savory, generous with fillings that ooze when warmed.

Their croissants are textbook examples of lamination, layers shattering with a gentle crackle before dissolving into butter-rich softness. Or you can go for a truffle mushroom danish with earthy perfume, or a berry custard pastry whose custard is silky and not overly sweet.

The focaccia is another standout. With its high hydration dough, the crumb is airy, almost sponge-like, yet topped with vegetables and cheese that caramelize into a crust of flavour. Warmed to order, the bread releases steam and an aroma of olive oil and herbs.

The nama shokupan loaves deserve their own mention. These milk breads, high in hydration, are as soft as pillows. Toasted, they develop a crisp shell that contrasts beautifully with the supple interior. Sliced thick, they become the canvas for indulgences like berry custard toast or the whimsically named honey sugar golden brick, drizzled with honey and topped with granulated sugar for a caramelized crunch.

For those with a sweet tooth, their feather-light Swiss rolls come in flavours like Rose Velvet and Yuzu. The Basque cheesecake is dense yet creamy, the top burnished to a smoky sweetness, while the Matcha Chocolate Cake strikes a rare balance — earthy and bitter, tempered by rich cocoa.

Kenjo is not the cheapest bakery in Johor Bahru, nor is it trying to be. Its breads are deliberate, precise, and deeply personal. For Joey and John, each loaf is a measure of craft and care. Don’t forget to check out their small cafe at the back of the shop. On quieter weekdays, it’s easy to linger with a cup of coffee or a Niko Neko matcha latte, pairing it with a shio pan or bagel. Customers read, chat, or simply sit and breathe in the aromas drifting down from above.